We had just a beautiful atmosphere at the Cruz de Ferro yesterday morning. The sunrise was brilliant and the pilgrims respectful.
A few km from the cross we encountered a very unique hostel and hospitaleiro Tomás. We stopped to play with his kitten Carbonita. Tristan offered to have Carbonita join our pilgrimage but it was not to be.
The downhill from the cross (highest point on our trail at > 1500m) was tough. The trail descends over very steep and slippery schist for over 10km. I slipped once, but just got a skinned knee.
Our destination was the historic village of Molinaseca. Our host at hostel Señor Oso (Mr. Bear) was named José. He was quite the micromanager, but the hostel was clean and full of some of Tristan’s friends.
New friends Ana and Francie told us about ordering drinks at the river.
Today was a long trek across the Bierzo valley, a rich agricultural micro-climate full of vineyards. We’re all a bit sore or injured now, though. Tristan has adopted an ankle brace and is treating swollen arches. Mary has a toenail that wants to part ways with her foot. How fortunate that we made a new friend today. Mary and I walked most of the day with Karen, a traveling pediatrician from Minnesota.
Tomorrow is supposed to be very rainy and we are supposed to do a steep climb. I think it’s already been decided that we’ll taxi up to O Cebreiro and have a “recovery day”.
Our visit to Astorga was lovely. Mary and I took the bus to cut short what would have been a 31km day, but Tristan walked the whole way.
Our hostess Patrícia and her son Gabriel at the hostel Só por Hoje (“Just for today”) were lovely and welcoming.
We had a lively pilgrim dinner of classic Brazilian food and made some friends.
Tristan finally got a chance to go out and meet the ”young crowd”. There was apparently quite the gathering and a bit of a pub crawl to celebrate a pilgrim’s birthday.
We visited the chocolate museum and the Episcopal Palace designed by Gaudi. It was even more beautiful than I had imagined and I was glad to see it this time since Rich and I missed it in 2017.
I think I need to redecorate at home now.
We left Astorga yesterday morning headed up our first mountain to Foncebadón. Tristan was really feeling the long distance from the day before and struggled, even with his pack transported ahead. We ended up needing to call a taxi out from Astorga to transport us 5 km to Rabanal del Camino where I was hoping there would be a pharmacy.
Alas, no pharmacy, but an ice pack and some lunch enabled him to climb the last 5 km to our hostel.
Foncebadón, a tiny hamlet. They’ve paved the only road since I was here last time.
And Mary and I made it too. We met 80-something George on the way up. He’s from Alabama and doing his 6th Camino.
Absolutely gorgeous weather. We’ve been lucky so far! I was way too tired to post last night so… lots more to share. We’re in Molinaseca now about to go stick our feet in the river. Next post- our visit to Cruz de Ferro this morning!
On our way from Villar de Mazarife to Astorga, Wednesday.
We’re headed for those mountains.
We left later than we should have after a sleepless night. It turns out that having a hostel window that overlooks the main thoroughfare in old León makes for a noisy night. I also accidentally gave the baggage transport company that is handling Mary’s suitcase transfer the wrong pick up address. Whoops! That caused some unnecessary running around this morning.
Mary was able to help an American pilgrim in need last night. Our hostel companion Jeremy had locked his ATM card and needed to borrow Mary’s phone (with active cell service ) to get his money issues resolved. In thanks Jeremy gave Mary a gift of a knitted prayer square.
On our way out of León we visited the modern architectural gem the Basílica de la virgin del Camino. Somehow RIch and I missed this back in 2017.
We had a picnic lunch during which we ate some of the pastries we’d bought last night from a little bakery shop last night. Tristan got something that was a bit like a Spanish Stromboli with pepperoni-like sausage and hard boiled eggs.
On the trail this afternoon we made the acquaintance of another pilgrim Denise from Colorado and Antonietta from Cuomo, Italy.
Now hungry and tired pilgrims are waiting for the hostel/bar kitchen to open at 7 for dinner.
Mary, Tristan and I arrived safely in León after an uneventful flight over. We’ve settled into our first hostel now and already met some pilgrims and Mary has fallen for a young beagle pup we’ve met on the street (the owners were very nice too).
We visited the cathedral this morning, got our first pilgrim stamp and have explored the old city and down to the river. Unfortunately a number of the museums are closed on Mondays.
So many well wishes from folks on the street already. It will be wonderful to be off on the trail tomorrow.
After almost 2 years of planning and a one year delay, my dream of leading a small group of pilgrims from All Saints’ Episcopal Church looks like it will finally be realized. God-willing, 4 of us will set out for Spain in 19 days. We’ll be beginning our pilgrimage in the city of León and after a day to get acclimated we’ll set off for 13 days of walking.
The pandemic has introduced plenty of uncertainties and a few complications. I am relieved and grateful that Spain is still letting fully vaccinated US travelers in and hoping nothing changes in the next two weeks!
Tristan, my soon-to-be 23-year-old son (how??) is one of my pilgrims. I am so glad that he is taking the time to come along. I hope it is a special experience for him as he decides on the next step after college.
Looking forward to posting updates from the trail….
Today is Memorial Day. Yesterday during “Zoom” church we viewed a moving video tribute to friends and family of church members who lost their lives in service to out country. It was striking to read about the deaths of uncles, nephews and fathers of people I know. I don’t know of anyone in my family who was lost to war, so I guess that makes our family very fortunate.
I’ve been doing a lot of other remembering these days. I’m in the beginning stages of re-organizing my Camino group trip plans to move them to 2021. Some folks have dropped out permanently, so I am planning on a group of about 5 and trying to move all of our reservations by one year, hoping that it is safe next September. In the meantime I continue my “virtual” Camino and I’m coming up on a milestone (www.walking4fun.com).
I am virtually on my way into Burgos, Spain, which marks the 1/3 point of the Camino Francés. Getting to Burgos was a big deal. I remember the day quite clearly. We had stayed in the town of Agés in a private hostel over a bar, about 5km past the guide book’s suggested stopping point. The Wi-Fi was so bad at this hostel that I didn’t manage to get an internet connection until the middle of the night. I remember waking up and realizing I had Wi-Fi, getting a blog post out and messaging with the kids.
As we climbed a boulder-strewn landscape on the way out the next morning, we made a new friend in an Italian woman named Siggi, who we learned was a nursing student in Austria. Siggi would become a regular companion of ours for the rest of the Camino. (For geologist friends out there she lives in the Dolomites and had her favorite peak tattooed on her arm.)
The way into Burgos had a number of trail options. Near the airport Rich and I turned left toward the “scenic” route and Siggi went right. By luck we managed to stumble upon the river-side way into town and we were very glad we did after hearing the grumbles of those who had walked in through the suburbs.
We got beds at the modernized hostel “La Casa del Cubo”, which really did have cubes for our bunks. It was nicely situated close to the Cathedral of Santa Maria. We explored the Cathedral, the first major church of our trip. The Gothic cathedral has been embellished with so many Renaissance and Baroque elements that it did not really appeal to me as much as the cathedral in Léon would later.
We had toured the Cathedral and been treated to a drink by our friend José Luis, a retired professor who we had met at dinner the first night in Roncesvalles. Burgos was his home town and this was supposed to be the end of the road for him, but to our delight he decided to continue all the way to Santiago!
Decision time arrived! We had made a great error in planning our trip, in that we had not scheduled any “rest days”. It hadn’t occurred to me that we would want/need such a thing. But we had decided that we would take a rest day either in Burgos or Léon and make up the time across the meseta. We had read and been encouraged by others that you could do extra long stages across the middle third of the Camino, as it is relatively flat. The day turned rainy and we decided that we would move on from Burgos without the rest day. On to the meseta! The rest day would wait until we’d earned it.
Well the unthinkable has happened and we are all living the Coronavirus nightmare. The Camino in Spain is shutdown as Spain fights its battle against infection and death. I’ve been monitoring the official pilgrim channels and blogs and it is hard to imagine how exactly the trails will be re-opened to pilgrims. They will need to be eventually, as many small family businesses depend on the pilgrims to keep their families fed and their tiny villages alive.
I personally think that the world will not be able to wait for a vaccine to be developed and we will have to return to normal life as best we can but with added vigilance. Maybe pilgrims will be required to undergo health checks and self-quarantine if they feel ill? I know I got sick (just a cold) in one of the hostels. It is quite easy for illness to spread when bunks are mere feet from one another.
Regardless, it is extremely unclear whether the pilgrimage I intended to lead this September will come to pass, but on a bright note I have found a “virtual” camino to help keep the dream alive and spirits up.
I am “walking” my Camino via https://www.walking4fun.com/. You can choose from 20 some trails and log your daily steps to “walk” virtually. I integrated my account with my Fitbit. Progress can be tracked on topo maps and you can see your virtual trail “neighbors” as well. I’m starting over from the beginning of the Camino Francés and I’ve made it to the second stage just over the Pyrenees past Roncesvalles.
Admittedly, it’s going to take me a lot longer than 33 days to finish this walk, but I am enjoying all of the photos that are at various mile markers along the way. They are pretty cool and bring back fond memories of my experience in 2017. There’s also a register where you can leave messages. There are some annoying ads, so I bit the bullet and paid for the premium membership.
You can follow along my journey below via this badge, which will update with photos of my current trail location:
This is an important and personal question for any pilgrim looking to minimize the weight of their pack. The quick answer depends entirely on the season you plan to walk. If you are walking in winter, spring, or even in May, I would definitely recommend a 3-season sleeping bag (comfortable to 30 degrees). For summer and fall I think it comes down to personal preference and a choice between a sleeping bag and some lighter options, with a few consideration regarding (ugh…) bed bugs.
In general, your hostel bed will come with a disposable mattress cover, as can be seen in the photo above, and a pillow, also with disposable cover. Blankets may or may not be available. Our first night on the Camino, in the overflow building at the Roncesvalles hostel, a woman was sleeping covered in her poncho because she had assumed blankets would be provided and they were not. I personally will NEVER use blankets or sheets that are provided after seeing a young American kid absolutely covered in bed bug bites from one of those blankets.
So my husband Rich and I both brought sleeping bags. I also brought and used a silk sleeping bag liner. We were walking in September and October, and in general, we could have gotten away without having a sleeping bag. The hostels were generally stuffy, not chilly. However, I get cold easily and enjoyed the comfort of the sleeping bag. I think Rich really should have had the sleeping liner so that he could have slept without the sleeping bag on most nights.
Reasons to bring a sleeping bag
I would bring a sleeping bag if you tend to get cold or if you want that extra layer of protection between you and potential bed bug companions (I bet you are tasty!). I spent way too much money and bought the Western Mountaineering Megalite sleeping bag which weighed only 1lb. 7 oz and packed up very small. Rich scored a zipper-less sleeping bag from Sierra Designs that weighed slightly more, but cost half as much. The disadvantage of the full bag is that it can be restrictive, too hot, and it’s a pain to pack down every morning. Mine barely fits in the bottom pocket of my pack.
Alternatives
A great alternative to a sleeping bag would be a camping blanket or sleeping quilt ( which wraps around and pockets your feet but is open on bottom). You can also wear your fleecy jacket or next day’s outfit to bed for a really cold night. Keep that weight below 2 lbs!
To me the main advantage of the blanket is that it should weigh a bit less than a sleeping bag and you won’t have to unpack it unless you need it … if you also have a liner.
Say ‘Yes’ to the sleeping bag liner
I absolutely recommend having a liner whether you bring a bag or use a blanket. Check out something like the SeaToSummit Adaptor Coolmax Liner with Insect Shield or the Cocoon Silk Mummy Liner. I bought the Cocoon mummy liner and it was great for those nights that it was too hot to be inside the sleeping bag. I treated it, my sleeping bag, pack, and a pillow cover with insect repellent spray so that I could sleep comfortably without the heebie jeebies.
There you have my advice. What am I doing this time? I’m taking the sleeping bag again since I already own it, with the sleep liner. I’ll give them a fresh coat of insect repellent for good measure. Sweet dreams!
Research and preparation for your Camino de Santiago will go a long way to making your trek more enjoyable and stress free once you’re on your way. I’ve put together a few points of opinion and advice for the 4 most important gear choice below.
1) Backpack
This is THE piece of gear. It will become like another body part. You’ll feel the security and liberation that comes from having all of your belongings on your back. That said, buy the minimum size you think you can get away with. The less you bring, the happier you will be.
- Size: I used a 46L pack, which worked perfectly. I could have used a 36L, perhaps, if I didn’t bring a sleeping bag. My husband Rich use a 48L pack. Definitely stay below the 50L pack range. You don’t need to worry about carrying food or a tent or more than 1L of water.
- Gender Specific: Women need a pack built for chests and hips.
- Adjustable torso length: I bought an Osprey pack and they came in several sizes in addition to gender, but I still needed to adjust the torso length so that the pack did not hit the back of my head.
- Hip belt
- Chest belt
- Water bottle side pocket
- Breathable or suspended back: Great for sweat relief.
- Side entry into pack: Optional but quite convenient.
- Sleeping bag compartment: Optional but quite convenient if you choose to bring a sleeping bag.
- Popular brands: We saw Osprey, Deuter and Quechua as the most common backpacks
I used the Osprey Kyte 46L. Rich used the Osprey 48L Kestrel. Both were purchased at REI and fitted with the help of their trained staff, who will also fill the bag with weights so you can get a realistic and comfortable fit.
If you are not planning on walking with your backpack and are intending to have it transported for you then you need a day pack. I would look for the following features:
- Size: ~20L or smaller
- Water bottle side pocket: Optional but more convenient than opening your pack to get to water
- Padded shoulder strap: Nice to have to prevent shoulder pain from too much weight
- Chest belt
- Waist belt: this will help distribute the weight better and secure the pack
- Needs to hold: water bottle, rain gear, first aid kit, layers of clothes you peel off as you warm up, snacks, and valuables (money/passport/credential/phone)
- Suspended back: Wonderful if you don’t have to worry about the pack being collapsible, otherwise choose a “stowaway” design. I used the 20L Osprey Tempest for our walking trip in Scotland last year.
A word about water: You’ll notice I have not recommended an integrated water bladder compartment. Most packs will have one anyway (although the bladder itself is not included). I DO NOT recommend using a water bladder. Water is readily available from pilgrim fountains and at bars and hostels. The weight of a filled water bladder will be too much and it is very inconvenient to re-fill. I bought a sturdy screw top 1 liter bottle of water in St. Jean Pied-de-Port and used that as my bottle for the entire Camino, storing it in a mesh side pocket. The water bladder compartment actually makes a nice pocket for stowing maps or an ipad. Besides, if you don’t have a water bottle, what are you going to fill up at the Wine Fountain?
2) Shoes
Shoes are a very personal choice and what works for one person definitely may not work for anyone else. The one universal truth about footwear for the Camino de Santiago is that you do not need hiking boots. As the experts says, it is not a technical trail. The surfaces are usually country roads (gravel), dirt, asphalt, concrete, or cobble stones. The way can be slick and muddy in places but is mostly very stable. Many people choose a trail running shoe. So what would I look for?
- breathable (try to stay away from Gore-Tex?)
- light weight
- good stability
- good cushioning for all day comfort
- rock kick plate to protect your toes
- big enough to wear with 2 layers of socks
- Nothing that can rub on the inside
Buy your shoes after you’ve been on your feet all day (after 4pm) on a warm day to help simulate the foot swelling you can expect and also bring the socks that you will wear. I think I actually over-compensated for projected swelling and bought my shoes a tad too bid in the toe box which led to blisters from sliding.
After you have purchased your shoes do several long-ish walks in them. If they aren’t working out return them and try again. MAKE YOUR SHOE PURCHASE EARLY.
Anecdotal evidence: Our Camino friend Mike started walking with hiking boots he had used previously with no problem in Oregon. He developed swelling and terrible blisters and was delayed several days in Léon. He ended up finishing his Camino wearing crocs. I saw another young couple who brought only trail sandals and socks. They regretted that big-time! I tried walking in sandals for an hour one day when my blisters were at their worst. I gave up almost immediately because gravel kept getting under my toes.
Additional Footwear
You need something to wear in the hostels and around town once you’ve reached your destination. Your trail shoes are not permitted inside the sleeping quarters of the hostels and are usually stored in racks in a designated space along with your hiking poles. You might also want something that you can wear in the shower.
Crocs seem to be a popular choice. Rich brought some fairly heavy trail sandals (way too heavy for me). I ended up choosing an open toe sandal that could be worn with socks and was the lightest weight I could find (Chaco Z/Volv). I took it as an omen that the color was named “Camino Orange”. REMEMBER – these will be in your pack so weight matters!
3) Rain Poncho
Most backpacks now come with an integrated rain cover. I have a nice 20L cover for my Osprey laptop bag and it is very handy during my commute. I would NOT recommend a pack cover for the Camino, however. This is because it does not cover the backpack straps. Water will eventually inundate the sponge-like straps and then the pack might get wet. You’d also need to protect your body with a rain jacket and rain pants.
Instead I recommend a rain poncho with a “hump” designed for use with backpacks. I first read about the very popular Altus brand poncho on the Camino forums. However it is made in Europe and thus difficult to get in the U.S. It is also pretty darn heavy. I bought a very similar design, available on Amazon.
Features to look for:
- “Hump” – this accommodates the backpack, but can also be stowed away for use without the backpack
- Lightweight: look up that weight before making a choice
- Long: Make sure you get a size that will help protect your legs. You really don’t want to bring rain pant
- Real sleeves
- Elasticized at wrist: There’s nothing quite like that stream of water running down your arm if you lift your arms up. The poncho I bought didn’t have elastic wrists so I made my own by keeping two rubber bands handy.
- Price: I bought my knock-off poncho for under $20 on Amazon.
4) Hiking Poles
I had a serious debate with myself about bringing poles because I had read many different opinions on the Camino forums about the merits of poles. Also, there was the issue of how to get them through TSA security at the airport. I am EVER grateful that I decided to bring them. I don’t understand why anyone would walk without them. What should you look for in your poles?
- Lightweight but strong
- Z-style: easier to pack and to adjust rapidly
- Rubber cap: Optional rubber cap for asphalt and concrete surfaces. The metallic clack of hundreds of hiking poles can grate a little bit. I am looking into buying Black Diamond Z-Pole Tip Protectors for my poles.
So I borrowed a pair of Black Diamond FLZ poles from some friends of ours and I loved them so much I got myself a pair. Rich took an old pair of much heavier poles from REI that have a twist-lock mechanism. If you have older poles you might consider upgrading to the lighter, more compact z-poles with the better locking mechanisms. Rich’s poles would slip out of place and took a lot more time each morning to adjust to the correct height.
How to pack your poles
TSA isn’t very friendly about hiking poles. It’s possible you could slip through security with your poles in a carryon bag, but also quite likely they’ll make you check them. Technically I believe they are prohibited.
Rich and I avoided the problem by putting our poles into a triangular mailing tube from FedEx and checking the tube as luggage. We took our backpacks as carryon luggage but then were forced to gate check them anyway. Once we got to our destination we threw the tube out. I was able to buy a new one with no problem at the post office in Santiago for the trip home. We also taped a utility jack knife to the inside of the tube so we’d have scissors, knife and corkscrew handy in Spain.