Downshift Musings

We had just a beautiful atmosphere at the Cruz de Ferro yesterday morning. The sunrise was brilliant and the pilgrims respectful.

A few km from the cross we encountered a very unique hostel and hospitaleiro Tomás. We stopped to play with his kitten Carbonita. Tristan offered to have Carbonita join our pilgrimage but it was not to be.

The downhill from the cross (highest point on our trail at > 1500m) was tough. The trail descends over very steep and slippery schist for over 10km. I slipped once, but just got a skinned knee.

Our destination was the historic village of Molinaseca. Our host at hostel Señor Oso (Mr. Bear) was named José. He was quite the micromanager, but the hostel was clean and full of some of Tristan’s friends.

New friends Ana and Francie told us about ordering drinks at the river.

Today was a long trek across the Bierzo valley, a rich agricultural micro-climate full of vineyards. We’re all a bit sore or injured now, though. Tristan has adopted an ankle brace and is treating swollen arches. Mary has a toenail that wants to part ways with her foot. How fortunate that we made a new friend today. Mary and I walked most of the day with Karen, a traveling pediatrician from Minnesota.

Tomorrow is supposed to be very rainy and we are supposed to do a steep climb. I think it’s already been decided that we’ll taxi up to O Cebreiro and have a “recovery day”.