Caminho Português: Day 3 & 4
Valada and Santarém
Yesterday we got off to an early start at about 6:45. It’s a good thing too because we ended up with a 33km walk and a bit too much sun. There were some nice sections of the walk with amazing birds (storks) and some really ugly sections.
In Azambuja we ran smack into their May festival complete with bull running and traditional costumes. After that, though, we were in for an 11km slog with no towns, much of it on pavement which causes extremely painful feet. Not fun at all.
Our host for the night was Enrico. He is Italian and there were 4 Italian pilgrims bound for Fatima also staying, so we enjoyed a wonderful meal with them.
Valada is on the banks of the Tejo so this morning we had a nice view setting off towards Santarém.
Our feet were still so very sore and today we had only one town and then a 16km stretch through rural lands. The fields are mostly tomatoes and vineyards, with some corn, kale, and some sort of grain. Also some beautiful wildflowers.
A pilgrim swing was a pleasant surprise but we quickly gave it up to a pair of South Korean pilgrims. Nice to have some fellow pilgrims on the trail today!
Santarém is strategically located on a bluff above the river. There have been settlements here since some number of centuries B.C. It was an important Roman center, a stronghold for the Moors and then recaptured by the first king of Portugal. Which means we had to go uphill!
Fabulous views up and down river from the Portas do Sol garden at the site of the citadel.
A bit of bad luck today with rain, some of the sights being closed, and fighting with recalcitrant machines at the laundromat. Tomorrow is scary. Over 34km. Insane! Who planned this?!