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Category: Primitivo

Camino Primitivo: Day 13

Done! We arrived this morning at 10 am, among the first 200 pilgrims. Looking forward to going home tomorrow! 310 km (192 miles) from Oviedo. (Tristan says he is glad he did not look at the km markings at the beginning!) Tonight we sleep in a private room, alone, after 13 days of hostels. No…

Camino Primitivo: Day 11 & 12

We’re 10km from Santiago Yesterday our path joined with the French Way. The separate Camino Primitivo way is over. It was a somewhat tedious 20km to Melide where we joined the hordes of other pilgrims. I really disliked the place we stayed the night before- one of the worst hostels, not because the owners…

Camino Primitivo: Days 9 & 10

A Party in Lugo We arrived to the beautiful UNESCO heritage site of the walled city of Lugo to find the old city teaming with cultural celebrations for the National Day of Spain. What luck to hit another festival! We don’t really have great photos. I didn’t want to be rude about photographing…

Camino Primitivo: Day Eight

A Brutal Goodbye to the Mountains I couldn’t get any image to upload yesterday, so here is the belated report. Actually, the day just needs to be forgotten. Two near-vertical extended ascents left me completely drained. We had hoped to walk 28 km but had to stop at 20 and spent the evening…

Camino Primitivo: Day Seven

Woah, we’re halfway there, Woah-oh, livin’ on a prayer Unbelievable skies awaited us this morning. This Camino is so beautiful. It’s also so, so tough. The morning started with a 7km climb to El Acebo peak, the dividing boundary with Galicia. We have officially left Asturias behind! We have very…

Camino Primitivo: Day Six

A Pyrenean Descent We left a lovely family-run hostel in the village of La Mesa at about 7:30 a.m. into dense fog. It was super cool. We could hear the whomp-whomp of wind turbines as we passed underneath but couldn’t see them at all. Fellow pilgrim Aija from Latvia took…

Camino Primitivo: Day Five

Los Hospitales route exceeds expectations! Yesterday we did the iconic Camino Primitivo stage “Los Hospitales”, named for the ruins of 3 pilgrim hospitals located atop the mountain ridge tops. The threatening rain had disappeared from our forecast and we lucked out with another gorgeous sunny day. The climb up to the top of the mountains…

Caminho Primitivo: Day Four

Gorgeous day Early departure this Tuesday morning to make up for yesterday. Tristan was pack-less so he was leaving me in the dust. Again, we started the day with a big climb but this time it was more gradual and with stunning views of the mountains. A very odoriferous day. These Asturian cattle are…

Camino Primitivo: Day Three

Day 3, the day your body says ‘Hey!’ Day 3 is always one of the worst Camino days, when your body questions what was wrong with having a vacation at the beach. We had a hard time getting going. Tristan’s entire body was sore and we made very slow progress until about 1:30…

Camino Primitivo: Day Two

Early Bedtime It’s not even 7:30 pm and Tristan is in bed asleep and I’m having trouble keeping my eyes open too. We had a good day. We started before dawn with a big climb out of Grado. We passed through country that was lushly green, with sheep, horses and cows, cute…

Camino Primitivo: Day One

On our way from Oviedo We walked 25km today (15.5 miles). Met a nice group of German, Spanish and New Zealand pilgrims. The day started beautifully but turned to misty rain. No matter, we are supposed to have beautiful weather from here. We’re in a very nice pilgrim hostel in Grado. Our hosts…